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Tools needed for wood carving. Wood cutters: types, do-it-yourself manufacturing process. Types of woodcarving

Let me tell you a little about my carving tool.
When I started going to the wood carving club, I used the master's tool. And immediately began the dream of his own instrument.
The guy with whom I went to carving had a father who worked at some metallurgical plant and I ordered 2 semicircular chisels from him, then a friend of my brother gave me a couple more cutters, 2 knives and 2 semicircular chisels a familiar artist, 1 knife guy from the yard. Steel is a good tool, I use them now.

Then one day a plumber came to our house to repair a tap and we started talking, I told him that I was carving. And he said that he had a set of Soviet cutters at home and he wanted to give it to me) I was extremely happy and jumped to the ceiling, he went home and brought it. It was cool, they were not even sharpened!) I especially liked the knife, it was my favorite tool for a long time. Cut nice and straight. He kept his sharpness for a long time, Soviet incisors are cool incisors!

Then I had a break with carving, and there was nowhere to sharpen knives and cutters.
Then I began to look for shops and markets, tents where I could buy cutters. But did not find.
Didn't learn much about sharpening the tool I had, but it was very clumsy.
After some time, I found the page tatianka.ru on the Internet, but at that moment there were only domestic cutters and knives to choose from, and I ordered a couple of knives and chisels for myself, so my arsenal began to replenish))



I saved up money and bought myself a small set of 12 Tatyanka incisors. I like it, now I use it. I cut out a box with it. The steel is not bad, but of course it cannot be compared with Pfeil, they often need to be corrected on the skin with GOI paste and then undermined. They are only suitable for soft woods (linden, alder, maple, birch).

Then, at that time, my girlfriend (and now my wife) gave me a set of 7 knives for my birthday, I was very happy. I cut out a frame for a mirror with them), a box with a geometric pattern and a donation box.

In the Leroy Merlin store, I found cutters from the Czech company Narex and of course I could not resist and bought them. (Who seeks always finds). The cutters are good, the steel is better than Tatyanka's, but they also cost 2 times more.

When I was in Moscow on a business trip, passing through or visiting friends, I went to the Tatyanka store on Baumanskaya. Of course, I really liked the Pfeil cutters there and I bought myself a couple of knives.
They showed themselves well in work, remain sharp for a long time, cut wood well and cleanly, both soft and hard (beech, oak were cut with them).
Now I have several cutters and Pfeil knives and they are my favorite, because. it is a very good tool. Their cost is from 500 rubles. (the cheapest knife) and higher, but in my opinion this is not an overpayment for the brand, but the purchase of a good and high-quality tool (once again this is my opinion, not everyone may agree with me, but I think so).

I also got an interesting Bahco knife. I bought it for 4 euros, not a bad price for a good knife. Perfectly cuts paper and wood, both soft and hard.

I like to store incisors in fabric twists, drawers:

I also sign my incisors.

One small tip, if for some reason you do not use knives, cutters, then lubricate the cuts with any tool oil (I use WD-40) so that they do not rust.

I think that all carvers will agree with me that there are never enough cutters)))) but at the same time I am a supporter of reasonableness, there is never a lot of money, so you need to try to buy the tool that will be used and will pay for itself, and will not just lie without Affairs.
And finally, about dreams))) I want to earn money and buy myself this wonderful suitcase of the same beloved Pfeil company:

There are many other good manufacturers, both domestic and foreign, who produce and sell carving tools, I wrote about mine.
I want to add links to some of the resources that I use where you can look for tools, accessories, equipment and everything you need for a carver and a good Craftsman forum.
tatianka.ru
reznoe.ru
Stameskino.ru
rubankov.ru
kalpa-vriksa.ru
forum.woodtools.ru

Thank you for your attention.

The text indicates the work performed by the cutters, then links to the articles of these works will be added.
And there will definitely be an article on sharpening knives and cutters.

The article uses photos from the web page tatianka.ru

You can buy and order wooden works in my shop

Wood carving is a complex and exciting activity. It allows you to create unique crafts, decorate your home, make gifts to friends and acquaintances.

Also, carving will be a constant source of positive emotions, and for some, even generate income. For children, this hobby will be a great way to spend free time and develop artistic thinking.

Most often, woodcarving tools are made. This happens for three reasons:

  • Firstly, it is rare to find a good cutter on sale.
  • Secondly, many people cannot afford it, especially teenagers and children who are fond of carving. Most often, cutters are sold in sets, have a high price, and half of them are unlikely to ever be needed.
  • Finally, the third reason is that experienced carvers prefer to make a tool “for themselves”.

DIY wood carving tools (drawings) can be divided into three types - knives, chisels and engravers.

A knife is a tool that works with a straight or curved cutting edge.

Cutting wood occurs under a force directed mainly across the axis.

A carving chisel is a tool during which the force is directed along the axis, according to the principle of a conventional carpentry chisel.

A chisel is a tool that is a kind of chisel. First, it crashes into the wood, and then a small layer of wood is “teared off” with the skillful movement of the carver. Climbers include all kinds of cranberries - a special tool popular in Transcarpathian woodcarving.

Starting with a simple one - a cutter for geometric threads

Geometric thread is the simplest type of thread.

It will be the best choice if you just want to try your hand at carving.

Despite its apparent simplicity, it allows you to create drawings with a "three-dimensional" effect.

It is also a national art craft in Russia, Karelia and Finland.

Geometric carving does not require a lot of "hardness" of the hands, such as carving with a chisel. It consists of simple elements - pegs and triangles.

Making a woodcarving tool with your own hands is easier than for any other. Objectively, this is the only tool that can be made at home without the use of forging.

The cutter for geometric carving is a knife. Outwardly, it looks a bit like a leather shoe knife with an oblique blade, but the similarities end there. The main difference is the width of the blade and the cutting angle of the knife.

The width of the cutter for geometric carving should be about 2 cm, however, this will depend on the size of the pegs that you intend to cut.

The angle of the "bevel" of the cutter should be quite steep, almost straight - from 80 to 70 degrees. It is undesirable to work with a too “sharp” nose - the cutter during such work will close the drawing and it will not be visible what you are doing. In addition, at too large angles, the tip of the cutter will constantly break during awkward movements.

blade material

The best option is to make the cutter forged from a bar.

The part of the blade protruding from the handle must be forged from a round section into a flat knife.

It will cover the drawing less when .

Unfortunately, most carvers do not have access to a forge and do not have the forging skill.

For them, it will be optimal to make a tool for woodcarving with your own hands from an old blade of a hacksaw for metal.

The canvas is made of R6M5 steel, sometimes carbon steel. It has a width of 25 ... 50 mm and a thickness of 2 to 5 mm. If possible, take a blade 25 mm wide and 3 mm thick, it is best suited for the cutter.

How to cut the canvas of the right size and at the right angle? After all, it is hardened! You don't need to cut anything. Clamp the blade firmly in a vise under the desired one.

Then, with a hammer blow, simply break off the blade as needed - the break in the vast majority of cases will occur along the clamping line of the vise jaws.

Then correct the cut line on an electric sharpener and pre-sharpen the cutter. The blade is fixed in the handle with the help of cloves that used to cut metal. This is best done by drilling holes and driving in rivets, but due to the hardness of the material, it will be extremely inconvenient to drill it.

Perhaps you will find another, more suitable one. The main thing is that it should be made of high-quality steel. Some make incisors from files or surgical instruments, from knife blades to strip wires. Excellent cutters are obtained from broken disc cutters for metal from P18 steel. All of these methods are good.

About homemade wood tools - on the video:

The Englishman E. Harris, in the manufacture of the original 13 meter red cedar spoon, spent a week working with a chainsaw, chisels with a mallet. Ordinary craftsmen, for whom carving patterns are a hobby, use a wider range of wood tools. There are hand knives, chisels, cutters, electric, laser engravers, accessories for drills, sharpeners (flexible shaft). In the manufacture of large structural elements of dwellings (columns, beams) with decorative carvings, a chainsaw, a multifunctional power tool, a jigsaw, a reciprocating saw are usually used.

By default, wood is a fairly soft material, so the tool life, taking into account repeated sharpening, is much higher than analogues used in metal processing. When choosing a beginner who is mastering this technology, it should be noted that a high-quality hand tool for wood carving can cost no less than an electric engraver. A standard set of knives costs 1,500 - 700 rubles, an extended one has a price of 3,000 rubles.

There are different technologies (ornament, animals, relief, applied carving), styles of carvings. For beginners since 1990, the most popular style is Tatyanka, which has several nuances:

  • work without a stop - the workpiece is not fixed during the cutting process
  • material without flaws - with the exception of knots specially beaten by the master
  • texture is not taken into account - soft linden is preferable
  • storage - boards with incomplete patterns are stored in a wet rag or PVC bag on the balcony (in any unheated room)
  • tool - radius chisels (number 6, 17), joint knife (blade 1.5 mm, blade width 20 mm, heel angle 45 degrees)

This technology is optimally suited for beginners, since the tool and material have a budget cost.

In addition to these techniques, there are methods:

  • volumetric carving - small 3D image
  • openwork decor - the background of the picture is drilled out, cut out with gaps
  • geometric pattern - deepens into a smooth background
  • relief - the background is recessed, the picture protrudes above it
  • flat carving - not a deep designation of the silhouette in the same plane as the background

After some practice, the master chooses a tool that is convenient for him for each technology. For example, a bas-relief can be cut with a chisel, a knife, a drill; to make an openwork composition, you will have to use a jigsaw, drills, and refine the ornament with cutters.

Knives

All woodworking tools of this type have standard numbering, which is quite difficult to understand. You should start with the purchase of standard kits, which are completed by specialists. After acquiring some experience, the master will be able to independently expand the range, depending on the chosen technique, individual genre preferences. The most popular knives of the following types:

  • Tatyanka - long handle, the location of the bevel of the blade is 2 cm from the hand of the master with a standard upper grip

  • Bogorodsky - 9 - 7 cm blade for a rough outline, 6 - 3 cm for fine work, semicircular shape, partial sharpening by analogy with a penknife

  • Jamb - an analogue of a shoe knife with a blade beveled at 45 degrees with one-sided sharpening

In addition to these options, there are hundreds of knives of different shapes and sizes. The leading manufacturers of this tool are the companies:

  • Flexcut - sets of knives, chisels, mixed type
  • Frost - in addition to incisors, it produces spoon cutters
  • Dem-Bart - a manufacturer specializing in tools for decorating stocks
  • Narex - sets from 4.5 thousand rubles
  • Petrov and Son - straight knives of five types
  • Pfeil - Swiss quality, violin, marking modifications, left-hand jambs, netsuke engravers

Knives for woodcarving require sharpening according to technology:

  • bar - rough, then fine-grained plane (circular, then cutting movements)
  • fabric skin - sequentially by 320, 400, 600 using the same method
  • leather belt - with grinding paste-compound

The technology is used after acquisition, with daily editing, the last two points are sufficient, depending on the strength of the wood.

Chisels

Wood tools of this type are straight, angular (V-profile), reverse (convex), curved (radius edge), cranberries. Unlike a cutter, a chisel immediately selects a groove of the desired profile in the wood. Power chisels are tapped with a mallet, manual chisels are designed for manual pressure without shock loads.

Chisels for wood carving from Kirschen and Stubai are considered the best. Any modification (without a handle) of these companies costs from 800 rubles, has a high resource with proper sharpening, which a novice carver will have to learn.

Detailing, sampling of soft wood is best done with budgetary chisels of Japanese manufacturers, firms Pridnestrovie, Korneev. A tool with a short blade is designed for manual work, it is easier to position and control in solid wood. Chisels with a long blade are designed for impact carving.

Power sculptural tools can be distinguished by the thickness of the blade (from 2.5 mm), in unstressed modifications it does not exceed 1.5 - 1 mm. Mushroom-shaped handles are equipped with gravers - you can’t hit them with a mallet, it’s inconvenient to hold with two hands. Working with a chisel requires practice; this type of chisel is used in carving miniatures.

Chisels (like cutters) are not superfluous, they can significantly expand the capabilities of the master. Thus, with a sufficient budget, extended sets are purchased, with a limited one, sets of 5 - 3 items.

There are electric chisels of a battery, network type, in which the equipment is driven by a vibration motor. Tools have a high price (from 15,000 rubles), a set of equipment from 3 bits costs 5-3 thousand rubles.

Tool kits

Facilitates the practice of making patterns with a set of tools for wood, in the kit of which professionals lay several cutters, chisels. The assortment allows you to decorate handicrafts, load-bearing structures of the building, make applied carvings in almost any style. With some success, a firm decision on the choice of this hobby, the master usually buys a few additional chisels, knives in addition.

At the initial stage, it is enough to decide on the type of thread:

  • in the manufacture of garden sculptures, impact chisels, electric jigsaws are relevant
  • to decorate the wooden pillars of the gazebo, it is better to choose a milling cutter, a manual disk or reciprocating hacksaw
  • a manual engraver will allow you to qualitatively decorate platbands, windshields, cornice strips with an ornament
  • the same power tool can be used to decorate furniture facades
  • carving on small-format piece products is often carried out with hand chisels, knives, cutters

In any store, instructions for a hand, electric tool, you can get information on the field of application.

Power tool for woodcarving

Unlike chisels, knives, cutters, which allow you to devote every free moment to your favorite business, power tools for wood are energy-dependent equipment. The technology for decorating blanks differs from manual cutting, but it also requires attention, perseverance, and accuracy.

Engravers

Tools for woodworking in the mid-price segment - hand-held engravers with a set of nozzles for roughing, finishing. Most of them are equipped with a flexible shaft (similar to a dental drill), which, if equipped with a drive (drill, screwdriver, grinder), can be a full-fledged power tool for openwork, laid on, curly, ornamental carving.

It is much easier to work with an engraver than with cutters, productivity increases by an order of magnitude. Budget modifications cost from 1.5 thousand rubles, the tool of leading brands has a more complete set of equipment, it costs 10 - 7 thousand rubles.

Flexible Shaft for Wood Carving

This type of woodworking hand tool is available for every budget. For example, Bosch produces a 1.25 m shaft 3500 rpm with a chuck 6 - 1 mm for drills of any manufacturer. The equipment weighs 850 g, costs 2.5 thousand rubles, allows you to make threads of any complexity on wooden blanks and structures.

Wood carving for beginners with this tool is the easiest option for any chosen style. When buying a grinding machine, the budget increases to 5 - 4 thousand, however, the owner gets the opportunity to regularly edit equipment (milling cutters, drills, burs), which is very convenient at home. A flexible shaft is included with most manufacturers of this type of machine.

All novice carvers ask: “What tools do I need first of all?” First we need a small number of tools. Instead of buying a complete set of cutting accessories, purchase tools as you need them. Usually when you buy a set, you don't save a dime, but there are always things that you almost never need. Get the best quality tools you can afford; good, sharp high-carbon steel tools will last you a long time and save you money.

Knives

You will need a good knife - one that will be comfortable to work with. There are three types of knives - with a folding blade (pocket knife), with a fixed blade and knives with a replaceable blade. I prefer fixed blade knives because they are the safest. Knives also vary in blade shape and steel type.

I recommend a high carbon steel blade with a hardness of 55 to 60 RC - it will stay sharper longer than a stainless or low carbon steel blade. For finishing and shaping, I use a blade that is 4 mm thick and 3.8 to 5.1 cm long. A knife with a narrower and shorter blade is better for detailing. Some cutters prefer knives with interchangeable blades, because instead of sharpening the knife, it is enough to simply change the blade. Another advantage is that that the handle of such a knife can be used with small chisels.

Chisels

Chisels come in different widths and curvature. Curvature is indicated by a number. The steeper the curvature, the larger the number. So, chisel number 3 is almost flat, and number 11 has a U-shape. Of course, a number 10 or 11 chisel cuts deeper and removes more wood than a number 3. On the other hand, a number 3 chisel is handy for finishing. The chisel-corner with number 12, which has a V-shape, is characterized by a wide range - from 24 to 90 degrees, but chisels with an angle of 60 to 70 degrees are most common.

When choosing a chisel, pay attention to the handle so that the tool does not roll onto the floor when you put it on the table. Otherwise, you will constantly have to repair the blade.

When choosing a chisel, also keep in mind the size and type of carving you want to make. For handicrafts, palm-sized chisels are more suitable, and even smaller tools will be needed for small parts. Sculptural and relief carving involves the use of standard chisels with heavy handles.

Saws

Carvers use saws of various types depending on the task, but the most commonly used bow saw ("snake").

It includes a replaceable high carbon steel blade mounted on a steel frame with a handle. A bow saw can be used to draw narrow, curved lines, although a fair amount of patience is required to prevent the blade from breaking or warping. The saw is also used to remove excess wood.

Special tools

The scraper is used for removing bark and for quick, rough removal of excess wood, as, for example, when working on furniture. The spoon knife has a double-edged round blade, ideal for making spoons, cups or masks.

Abrasives

Files and rasps remove excess wood quickly and smoothly. They differ in the nature of the surface, which can be rough, medium or relatively smooth. Always use flat, semi-circular or round tools with a handle. Files and rasps of the riffler type have teeth on both ends and a variety of shapes. They are used to penetrate hard-to-reach places and remove small chips. Tools with a rough surface are used for cleaning small areas.

The flexible sanding belt is useful when working on curved surfaces. Grinding cylinders as part of a hand drill or press are indispensable for final finishing. Polishing tools vary in surface texture and material nature to meet a wide range of requirements. Sandpaper should only be used at the end of the work, otherwise the abrasive particles will get stuck in the wood and your tools will quickly become dull.

electrical tools

When you start making blanks yourself, you will need a band saw. A huge selection of blades will allow you to easily make the most difficult cuts, far surpassing anything that can be done with a bow saw. An openwork saw will help to process the inner surface, but not every tree can handle it. Belt and disc sanders are good for both finishing and bark removal. Many carvers use rotary tools with a wide range of heads to work on details such as feathers. There are hand grinders and small high speed cutters. There are also at least four types of electric chisels with reciprocating motion that allow arthritis sufferers and people with tennis elbow to enjoy carving.

Strengthening devices

If you are holding the workpiece in a vise, choose a tool that does not leave marks on the workpiece (or insert some material between the workpiece and the vise). To attach the workpiece to the workbench, I often use a six-millimeter capercaillie and a wing nut. If you are a beginner, you can wear a steel wire glove to protect your hand.

I have an old friend, also a carver, who puts on a heavy leather apron when working towards the chest. When finishing or dyeing the product, you can use an awl or a dye stick.

SUPPORT

To better hold the workpiece when you cut a tree with a “snake” saw, I advise you to use a support - an ordinary board that supports the wood during sawing. Simply attach it to a workbench or table and hold the saw vertically in the V-shape as you cut the workpiece.

BENCH VICE

If you plan to do relief carving, I suggest you also make a simple bench vise. One terminal holds the vice from below in a fixed position, while the angle formed by the other two from above prevents your product or workpiece from slipping out of your hands during operation. Attach a bench vise to your work surface.

Accessories

Electric burn-out tools can be used for coloring the product, giving texture, as well as for signing the work. In this case, you will need a dust mask and a vacuum cleaner. You also need artist's tools and various brushes if you want to cover the product with paint or varnish. To transfer the pattern to the workpiece, I advise you to use tracing paper or copy. A good light source and a magnifying device are essential when performing fine detail work.

Instrument Care

You should periodically inspect your tools, wipe them with an oiled cloth so that they do not rust. Store your tools in their individual compartments or wrapped in cloth to protect them and reduce the time spent sharpening.

TOOL SHARPENING

Keep your tools sharp at all times, and pause to sharpen from time to time. All the carvers I know have developed their own dressing system; everyone found his own procedure, convenient for him personally. Some use whetstones with oil, others with water, and still others use electrical devices.

The first step is to sharpen the blade with a fine-grained abrasive, such as diamond grit or sandpaper. First, one side is processed until burrs appear on the metal, then the other. At the next stage of editing, the surface irregularities that arose at the beginning are eliminated. In conclusion, the blade should be polished to a mirror finish with a special compound, reducing friction between the blade and the wood.

How can you tell if a blade is sharp enough? Take a piece of scrap wood and run your knife across the grain. If an even mark remains, then the blade is sharp. If the fibers stick out in different directions and the mark is rough, then you need to sharpen the blade more.

REQUIRED TOOLS

cutting tools

Knife (preferably with a fixed blade)

Four straight chisels (palm size is enough)

No. 3 sloping chisel 1/2 wide (1.3 cm)

No. 7 semi-circular chisel 1/2 wide (1.3 cm) No. 11 steep chisel 1/4 wide (6 mm)

No. 12 chisel-corner 1/4 wide (6 mm)

Drawing supplies and patterning tools

Copier (MFP)

Bow saw ("snake")

Support (see above)

Drawing accessories

Pencil

Copy paper

Wood carving is used to create both functional products and decorative fixtures. Today, at the time of the technical process, with the advent of woodworking technology and artificial materials, carving has moved into the field of leisure and hobby.

However, the century-old tool is used by practicing carvers in the restoration of furniture, buildings and other works of art, as well as new products.

In carving, the ability to produce any product of high quality requires not only the innate ability of the carver, but also the practical skills to work with an immeasurable variety of forms. For this, both specialized hand tools and electrical devices have been created.

Chisels for woodcarving

The basis of carving tools is wood cutters for handmade. A set of round and flat chisels can be represented by 18 cutting edge shapes. Cloths have up to 5 different profiles, they vary in size from 2 to 50 mm.

Round and flat chisels for wood cutting are identified by number and name. As a rule, the name corresponds to the shape of the cutting edge and blade, while the section of the cutting edge is different. To facilitate the identification of chisels, a numbering system was adopted in the 19th century.

Special chisels are made, which are used for delicate and complex work. These include:

  • flat corner cranberry right and left;
  • cranberry with reverse bend;
  • cranberry with a stepped bend;
  • round chisel "fish tail";
  • pterygoid corner;
  • curved canvas with a rectangular chute;
  • cranberries with a rounded rectangular trough.

Other hand tools for cutting

In addition to chisels in carving, other general purpose woodworking tools:

Special fixtures

electrical tools

Modern carvers widely use electric tools for wood, which are lightweight, functional, and mobile:

  • Electric drill is the main power tool on the market. Drills are produced both with mains power and cordless. Many people buy a cordless tool out of habit, although cordless models are more convenient to use. They're lightweight, quiet, have removable battery packs, or come with wall-mounted cradles with a built-in charger. The range of use of an electric drill is expanded by all kinds of devices on it.
  • An electric jigsaw is a tool that works like a hacksaw and an openwork or bow saw. Modern designs are equipped with electronic speed control, the motors are highly balanced and have little vibration. All jigsaws are designed so that saws can be easily changed. A wide variety of different types of wood saws are produced with a special tooth configuration.
  • Circular saw or circular saw the specialist uses when you need to cut wood in any direction, quickly, accurately and safely. The main thing is to choose a tool with precise guides and a reliable saw blade guard. Some models have a built-in electronic control system that provides a smooth start when turned on and speed selection.
  • An electric planer is ideal for quick trimming or trimming. There are several types of knives that simply change if both edges become dull. The knife block is protected by a barrier, which prevents not only the worker, but also the knives from being damaged.
  • Using electric grinders, you can prepare the surface of the product for polishing or varnishing. There are belt and disc vibratory grinders.
  • Manual electric milling machine took the place of planers, zenzubels, tongue-and-groove and false gobels. With its help, edges, grooves are cut out in a wooden blank, quarters are selected, chamfered.

Installation of a wooden blank

Hand tools for woodcarving are very sharp. Therefore, for safe operation, it is important that the workpiece is secured. They use both special fixing devices or standard clamps, and made independently.

With sculptural cutting, the main condition for comfortable work is the ability to quickly change the angle of the product. To do this, use a special rotary clamp, with which you can quickly change and fix any angle of the workpiece.

Locksmith vise can be used for woodcarving by installing soft sponges on them so as not to leave traces of a metal sponge on the future product. The standard vise of a carpentry workbench can be used if you attach clamps to them, which will continue to hold the workpiece.

For clamping a flat workpiece on the surface of a stand or workbench, a joiner's quick-acting clamp will be convenient. A gasket must be placed between the product and the clamp. For the same purpose, you can use bench stops.

Wood carving vise is similar to a locksmith's but not made of metal, but of wood. They have thicker cheeks, which are covered with leather or cork so as not to damage the product. A model vice is an analogue of a metal vice. They have large, wood-lined cheeks that can turn.

A bench screw is used for rigid fastening of workpieces on a stand or workbench. The end of the screw with the screw thread is screwed into the wood, and the other end is fixed with a nut through a hole in the stand or workbench.

The stand of the carver is a wooden workbench, which consists of four spaced massive legs for reliable support and a thick surface. The surface is drilled in order to use fixing products on it. For stability, the stand must be weighted by attaching additional weight to it.

Main types and styles of carving

The following types of thread are distinguished from the type of materials and the method of its processing:

  • flat-relief;
  • embossed;
  • flat notched;
  • sculptural;
  • propyl.

Each type has its own tasks, methods of execution and results:

  • In applied arts and architecture, flat-relief carving is used. With this technique, the drawing and the background look voluminous, although they are in the same plane. This is achieved by cutting deep into the canvas along the contour of the image.
  • The most picturesque is relief cutting. Drawing with this time-consuming technique, relative to the background, will be convex.
  • With the flat-notched technique, the ornament is applied to a flat surface. The pattern is displayed in the form of recesses and recesses.
  • The sculptural look of woodworking creates images without a background. This technique is used to make toys, souvenirs that can be viewed from all sides.
  • The sawing method of carving involves the removal of the background completely. A pattern is applied to the fixed workpiece and holes for the saw are drilled. A cut is made along the contour, chamfered with a chisel and skinned. The effect of lightness, airiness is created.

There are author's styles of woodcarving. These styles, patented by the carver Shamil Sasykov, include the Tatyanka style. This is a flat-relief carving, in which there are flat-notched elements. You can get acquainted with this technique on the author's website tatianka.ru. The woodcarving tool and tutorial can be purchased from the online store of this site.